Nature Is Wearing Her Prettiest Clothes

The journey to the sea would now take us down through Provence, and it was the height of summer. The banks of the river led to rising hills, which were covered with vines from well-known wine houses. Oh, and then there was a nuclear power station! But even this was made to look pretty with a stunning mural, another example of French municipal art, strange but slightly comforting by now.

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Another first for us today, we were travelling in convoy!!

How exciting, though some of the other boats needed to be overtaking us at every opportunity and entering and passing through locks was highly entertaining.

It was nice though to be with other boats for a change and great camaraderie as we travelled south towards our next stop at a little village maned Viviers.

We later realised that the rush for space was related to the lack of many larger pontoons for some of the boats and they were wanting to bag their slot early.

Traveling downstream, we were warned in our guide that the Viviers boat harbor is not well indicated, as it is located in the old arm of the Rhone in a barge channel.

However, as part of the convoy, we found the entrance easily and waited patiently as the other boats maneuvered back and forth, fighting the strong current, to get to their berths. As a relatively smaller boat, but with no bow thrusters, Mike took great pride in slotting into a tight space with relative ease and a round of applause from the convoy. Bravo, mon brave!

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Viviers is a former Bishopric (area controlled by a bishop) and has a fantastic historical centre, with steep and narrow streets eventually leading up to the Saint-Vincent cathedral.

The port was lovely, and although it was very hot by now, we found a small tribuatary for dog walking with a great section of clear fresh water for swimming.

There was also a guinguette right beside the port which looked promising. Obviously it was closed the day we arrived, but we were to be here for a couple of days, so hope springs eternal.....

My younger brother was holidaying in Provence whilst we were here, and we decided to hire a car for a couple of days and do some touring, visit him and have a bit of a break from Ramukanji.

Mike researched a car hire company, he does like his research,and called to check everything from his online booking had gone through OK. There was much to and fro as for some reason we were supposed to have a business address ans we couldn't quite get through to the lady on the other end of the phone that we weren't a business, just a mad couple travelling through France by sailboat. ( I suspect mike had inadvertantly used his business e-mail but he assured me not).

Anyway, we tooke the chance , Mike got out the brompton bike and set off for the 12km ride to collect the car, using google maps.

All was fine and he had a nice, though windy, cycle along the river. He then however, entered an industrial park, of which there appeared to be no way to escape. There was no way he would be cycling all the way back and he managed to find an escape route, he hasn't told me how, though assured me it didn't involve criminal damage....mmmm, not sure about that.

In great high spirits (not) Mike arrived back with tales from his adventure and argument with the car hire lady.. anyway we had a car for a couple of days so were quite happy to go off exploring.

Provence is really beautiful and well worth hiring a car for a visit away from the river. It was busy whilst we were there as it was high season and school holidays but we didn't have problems booking restaurants or attractions.

We had arranged to meet up with my brother for lunch, and then in a very smart hotel later near to our hotel in Gordes.

It was very hot and we were grateful for the pool at our hotel.

Although we had been travelling the canals and rivers, there are very few opportunities to stop and swim, the canals are not swim clean and the rivers are running too fast to feel particularly safe.

The villages we visited were beautiful and the countryside as pretty as a picture.

The following day we had been recommended to take a trip up Mont Ventoux, my brother had suggested cycling, something he does regularly, but we decided a car would suit us better. It is a fascinating drive, watching the poor cyclists battle up in the heat, and wow what a view when you reach the top, amazing!

Heading back to Viviers we drove through classic Provencal countryside and pretty villages, though what can lie hidden in these rural areas has sadly shocked the French this year with the trial of Gisele Pelicot and the awful revelations it has revealed!

Our arrival back to Ramukanji was reassuring, no damage or problems whilst we had been away. The capitainaire here is manned by a lovely and friendly young man and all was well, the guinguette was even open tra-la-laaa , and we enjoyed a simple meal in a fun and vibrant establishment.

Two massive hotel ships had arrived , it was entertaining to watch them moor up and spill out their passengers the following morning. They were meeting for a walk up into the village and were fascinated by the 'dear little boats' moored at the harbour!

Quickly we donned our walking shoes and marched up to the historical centre , knowing we would be there and finished before the ship visitors would arrive!

Viviers is largely off the Provencal tourist trail and although not quite as neat and gentrified it is a fantastic village to esplore. One gains a great sense of what medieval France may have been like, quite harsh and frightening I think, especially at the time of the Huguenots and the tide of the french reformation of the sixteenth century.

This was the time of torture chambers and inquisition, and something we perhaps forget about having occurred in France.

The history of the reformation in france is very interesting and again shows how this country is vast and has to try to unify many differing beliefs and communities, and how wars and religious beliefs have often clashed in a land which is the geographical travel hub for much of Europe.

We had enjoyed our stay in Provence and tomorrow were heading for Avignon, another religously historical centre with much to offer and to discover.